WMS BB2 Conversion

Upon arrival to work to start my day, a co-worker was telling me about a WMS conversion that was supposed to have been started but the tech ran into a problem. When did Bluebird game conversions start coming with a “piggyback board” and a “dongle?” You may ask what is a “dongle” when applies to slot machines? How about a definition of a dongle? According to www.webster.com, the definition is: a small device that plugs into a computer (slot machine in this case) and serves as an adapter or as a security measure to enable the use of certain software. First known use: 1981. What does one look like? They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, for example on a Speilo game, they are about the size of an older printer port on a computer, about 25 pins, with two connectors matched together (I wish I could see what’s on the inside of it). On IGT games they are “keys” or dongles. We recently had some software issues with an IGT “Coyote Moon” game. I was asked to install the license key into an available USB port and turn on the game. It was supposed to be “plug and play” and it actually was! When power was turned on, the game booted up, machine options were checked and it was back online. 

IGTs also have setup keys. Not like to old days of the Game King physical privilege key but an electronic device that looks similar to a thumb drive, flash drive or data stick. Insert the “key” into a USB port and perform the task at hand. On new IGTs such as the G20, keys are used for setup, replacing the formerly used key chip EPROMS. On older Game Kings, to set specific options a key chip EPROM needed to be installed to perform certain tasks. Not anymore. Now with newer Speilo, IGT, and even some WMS Bluebird 2 games, an open USB port is used along with an electronic device such as a dongle, license key or thumb drive to download software to the game or to set specific game options. On newer Speilo games, one dongle is used for a RAM clear; a different one is used for setup and game optioning. Now it looks like (at least it looks like) some new WMS conversions may come with a dongle, such as a “Winning Bid 2" program. Simply plug the dongle into the piggyback board and plug the board into the left socket located right above the hard drive in the CPU area. Apply power to the game then start setting game options. The days of replacing the SS and SP chips on an IGT along with replacing the reel strips to do a game conversion look like they are long gone. Sometimes I will make a joke and say “What happened to the good old days? Replace two chips, reel strips, and done!” Now it seems slot machine technology is getting wilder and wilder? Or should I say crazy? With USB ports, license dongles, thumb drives, server based gaming, games even displaying the internal temperature, it makes me wonder what could be next in the wild world of slot machines.

WMS Bluebird error code definitions

The following are some of the WMS error codes, not all. Some are pretty much self explanatory such as “coin acceptor jam” which is a physical coin jam in the coin-in optic or a foreign object obstructing the optic. Another few would be “printer COM error” in which the printer lost communication with the game, a “printer paper jam,” clear the paper that is stuck inside of the printer. “Bill jam,” clear the bill or ticket that may be stuck inside of the bill acceptor. 

Here are errors and definitions that aren’t so common:
Touch Screen Data Error–the touch screen controller sent invalid information to the CPU board
Touch Screen Device error–the touch screen controller had an initialization error
PREPART DSS Signature Validation failed–check to see if the non-conductive battery tabs were removed from the CPU battery holder, make sure the CF cards are snug and secure, and in the proper sockets.
Protocol Com Error–a communication port error, check host communication settings
Progressive Disabled–the game has received progressive info from the controller, and is waiting for the controller to enable game play OR the game lost communication with the progressive controller.
Printer Timeout Error– the ticket print started OK but a “ticket complete flag” was not received.
Printer Not Set–the game options may need setup for the printer
Printer Offline–check the printer cable to see if the connection is loose or if the cable is damaged
Printer Device Error–may be a printer head failure, a voltage problem, or a temperature problem
IGM Bad Firmware Version–software in the progressive meter isn’t the correct version 
In Game Meter Config Error–the progressive meter wasn’t able to configure itself properly or the meter may not be supporting all of the different levels in the physical display, also check the software version
Double Call Attendant–if two separate “call attendant” messages are displayed, the BIOS chip may need to be replaced, the SPI chip or the CPU may need to be replaced.
EPROM System Error–an invalid signature identification was detected, the game needs a RAM clear or the CPU may need to be replaced.
Lamp Matrix Command Timeout–the lamp matrix didn’t respond to the command sent, the lamp matrix control board may need to be replaced
Power Cycle Required–device settings were changed in the game options, reboot the game.
Power Reset–this is displayed after the game was rebooted and it hasn’t been played yet, after one spin, the error clears.
Single Row Universal Animator Command Timeout–the Universal Animator Button, such as the 
 “Bonus bet Fish button” on a “Goldfish” game, didn’t respond to the command that was sent. The button, button board, or CAT5 cable or cables may need to be replaced.
Assert Fail–check RAM clear chip, check CPU, check memory card check software. Could be a bad OS card or a bad game card.
20-Line Payline Command Timeout– the payline lights didn’t respond to the command sent, check CAT5 cables and connections that run to and from the board, the payline light board may need to be replaced.
Mech Reels Bad Command Response–internal failure of the reel board, the board may need to be replaced.
Mech Reels Bad Firmware Version–the reel software is incompatible with the game software.
Mech Reels Bad Optic Band Reel–the reel optic film may be dirty or damaged.
Mech Reels Invalid Opto At Stop Reel–the optic film strip number of the stop positions doesn’t match the game requirement, the correct optic film may need installed and a pay table test will need to be performed.
NVRAM Device Error–an improper device or non-functional device was detected.
NVRAM System Error–an invalid signature identification was detected, a RAM clear needs to be done or the CPU board may need to be replaced.
NVRAM Corruption–RAM error, turn attendant key twice for a restart, perform a RAM clear or replace the CPU board.
Program Error–a program detected an unrecoverable error, similar to RAM error, turn attendant key twice to restart game, a RAM clear may be needed.

WMS Bluebird LCD Problem

This specific ordeal was a first for me. I was called to a Bluebird game that had been rebooted a few times and then the screen would freeze up. The game was a Bluebird upright game, with a single LCD for a monitor. Just for the heck of it I rebooted the game again ending up with the same results. All that would appear on the screen was the game theme. It didn’t matter if the screen was touched or if the diagnostic button was pressed or if the jackpot reset switch was turned. An image of the game theme remained on the screen. Maybe the main processor board became a bit loose? I turned off the game once again, reseated the main board and reseated both the OS card and the game card. After the power was turned back on and the game booted up with the same result. 

Now what? When I wiggled the power cable to the LCD, the picture wiggled too. I thought that this was interesting. When the cable was removed from the socket, there was a brown burn mark in the connector. I’ve seen a few power cables go bad before, making it look like a bad LCD when actually the cable was bad. Yes! I found the problem! 

After a new cable was installed (which goes from the LCD directly to the backplane board) the game was turned on yet another time and STILL the failure remained. This time I took a closer look at the LCD connections. Why were there two video cables connected to the input section of the LCD? One was a VGA, the other a DVI. If I was correct, simply unplug the VGA cable and leave the DVI in place to see what happens. As far as I know, a Bluebird game only has one video cable going to the main LCD. I disconnected the VGA on the LCD side and rebooted the game again. This time it booted up all the way and the picture looked normal. I touched the menu button (which I didn’t have displayed before) and the menu screen appeared. This indicated the touch screen was working now. It also indicated that the game was normal and appeared ready for play. I closed the door and it looked great. Next, I removed the VGA cable from the game so someone wouldn’t accidentally plug it in again. Finally, the game was ready to be played. 

WMS Bluebird 2 Rebooting Itself

We recently installed a bank of new BB2 games and all went pretty well. The games tested OK on the floor then they were released for the public to play. Within the hour, I heard a complaint that one of the games was rebooting itself. Common things were checked such as reseating the CPU board, reseating the CF cards and making sure the jurisdiction and BIOS chips were snug in place. 

Everything appeared good so I allowed a customer to play the game once again. Not long after it rebooted again. Now I knew we had an issue. Here are the items that were replaced: the CPU board (used original hard drive), the main game power supply, the jurisdiction and BIOS chip. I tried replacing the 80GIG hard drive with a 40GIG because we didn’t have an 80 on hand at the moment. The game did not like that either, also a few RAM clears were tried too which didn’t help so I made a phone call. The individual stated that the game may have a bad reel controller board. What the . . .? I have never heard of a BB2 game rebooting itself because of a bad reel controller board. I was also told if the reel lights are out (by the way it’s a “transmissive reel” game) the board may need to be replaced. I swapped the reel control board (which is located directly under the reels. It’s the board that the reels plug into) and both games were rebooting themselves. This told me there was a very good chance that the original board was in fact bad, AND more than likely the original problem game had more than only a bad reel control board because the game that it was swapped with was working just fine. 

I had the next two days off work but I was curious and had to ask when I returned. When I arrived the game was turned on and running. What was replaced to get it running? I was told that the reel control board and the CPU were replaced. But I would be willing to bet the CPU had a new hard drive in it and the original wasn’t used. So, something to keep in mind, if a BB2 (that has physical reels) is rebooting itself and everything else appears to be OK, a bad reel control board may be to blame. Also if the reels aren’t illuminated, it may be a bad reel control board. 

Printer Upgrade on a Bluebird

This wouldn’t be only a software (firmware) upgrade on a game, this would be about a complete printer upgrade. To start off with, for one reason or another, I didn’t have a spare GEN 1 (Seiko) type ticket printer.  At the casino in which I work we call them Seiko but they are also known as the GEN 1. What I would like to pass along is how easy and simple it was to upgrade a Bluebird stepper game that originally had a GEN 1 printer installed in it, to an Ithaca Epic 950. This also worked with a game that had an Ithaca 850 in it. That game was also upgraded to a Ithaca 950. One thing to check on the replacement 950 chassis is that the “power board” has to have 14 pins on it. The power board (some call it the “com board”), located directly behind the printer, has to have the 14 pin Molex type connector so the cable from the game will plug right into it. After the correct sized connector is checked, the game should be compatible with the 950 printer. Power down the game, remove four small bolts that hold the printer frame in place and unplug the cable that comes from the game that connects to the back of the printer. Next, set the Ithaca 950 printer frame in place (do not unplug the small ribbon cable that connects the printer to the “power board”, it may be tricky to reconnect.). Bolt the printer frame back down and plug the 14 pin connector into the back of the printer. Now power up the game. After the game has fully booted up, press the WMS round white diagnostics button, the go into the printer setup and printer type menu. This is what is a little weird but it works. The game does not have an option for the Ithaca 950 printer so simply select “PSA Netplex.” Select “save” option, then return to the regular game menu. Now, enter the diagnostic menu again and print a test ticket to verify that the printer does work. The game should print a test ticket. If not, the 950 may have the wrong software installed. The correct one is around version N00527. N00526 and N00528 should work also. As a note, we are running the “Oasis” system, with a majority of Sentinel IIs, and some Sentinel IIIs. It is also a good idea to print an actual cash out ticket from the game. I usually print two or three just to make sure the printer is working properly. 

WMS Bluebird Reel Strip Install

I don’t exactly remember the reason why but we had a new Bluebird that needed the five reel strips to be installed. OK, no problem. My estimated time was about ten minutes. One game totaling five reels, boy was I ever wrong. When I looked into the box, to my surprise there was reel encoder film for each reel. At the time I didn’t think much about it, only the reel strips should need to be installed. The reel encoder film should already be on the game, right? Not quite. It took me a few minutes to figure out how the unit went onto the reel basket, now how does it attach? Simply by opening up a game next door that had reels and reel strips already installed it was quite obvious that small plastic rivets were used. My problem now, where are the rivets to secure the reel encoder in place? I looked in the game, in the box, double checked both, and didn’t see any anywhere. Now what? Ask my manager to order twelve so we had two spares? The games were scheduled to be installed the following week. What type of fastener could be used? An EPROM tube plastic pin looked similar, maybe it would do the trick. (The small plastic pin that is at the end of a chip tube that keeps the chips from falling out, a type of plastic rivet?) When I tried it, no doubt the pin was too large. It seems like I have seen a small plastic type rivet used in slot machines somewhere before...could it be...do we even have any in stock? What I am thinking of is the small rivets or pins that are used on a JCM DBV bill acceptor head to hold down the steel plate. The plate needs to be removed when adjusting voltages and fine tuning a DBV. Were the parts identical? It didn’t take long and I found a bunch of them. When I grabbed one and tried it in the reel assembly, it worked perfectly. Now I could finish my task at hand. My ten minute job ended up taking around two hours. Since I was the only tech on duty at the time, I had to grab floor calls too. It took some time and thought but my task was completed.

WMS BB2 Upright Game, Power Problem

A complaint was received that a Bluebird 2 upright game had a power problem. When I arrived at the game, the only sign of any power was the auxiliary power which is for the tracking system and the internal game light; everything else was dead. Also, the game main power switch was in the ON position. Another thing I noticed was on the backplane board, none of the voltage lights were on. 

Located in the BB2 upright power supply, there are two fuses. The top one was OK, because when I took it out the internal game light went out. This indicated the fuse was good. When the lower fuse was removed and replaced with a spare, there wasn’t a change with the power problem. Because of the fuse type (ceramic, non-explosive type) it isn’t possible to look at it to tell if it is blown or not so I put a multimeter on continuity and the fuse tested OK. Since a blown fuse wasn’t the problem, it looked like the game power supply may be to blame. On my way to the shop I heard a noise from the unit, kind of sounding like a small screw was floating around inside of it. I replaced the game power supply with a spare, and the game turned on, booted up, and worked perfectly. Later, I talked to a co-worker and the individual stated a voltage regulator “blew up” inside of the power supply. The “remains” of the regulator is what was floating around and making the noise.